Rolex Brings Back The GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 “Root Beer”

By reading the title, you might think that I have completely lost it. But before you descend to the comments section, hear me out. With 2024 just starting, the rumors of potential new Rolex models have started swirling, particularly around a new Milgauss. While the Milgauss has its charm, my heart longs for a different revival-a new color variant of an existing icon. Some enthusiasts dub the GMT-Master II ref. 126711CHNR in Everose gold and steel the modern “Root Beer.” But is it truly deserving of that nickname? The recently released two-tone yellow gold and steel 126713GRNR with its gray and black bezel brings a touch of vintage flair to the modern GMT-Master II. This is why I have a simple wish-a genuine, modern GMT-Master II “Root Beer.” 

To be honest, I don’t think a true return to the original Root Beer’s form will happen. The Everose gold and steel version of the modern Rolex GMT-Master II feels too similar to the original. And don’t get me wrong; I don’t wish to see the 126711CHNR go. It has its own fan base, and I understand why. But as Brandon brilliantly explained two years ago, that watch feels more like a GMT-Master II “Cough Syrup” than a true Root Beer. That’s why a proper Root Beer, echoing the 1675/3’s legacy, would be a fantastic addition to the replica Rolex GMT-Master II lineup.

If you’ve followed this series, you know it’s not necessarily about our wishes coming true but about celebrating classics from the past. That’s what inspired me to pen this wishful thinking. Brandon’s article compared the current “Cough Syrup” to the 1990s GMT-Master II ref. 16713, a watch he cherishes and considers the neo-vintage Root Beer. While I also appreciate the 16713, the true Root Beers in my book are the original GMT-Master 1675/3 and the later 16753. These were the style statements of the 1970s that began the Root Beer legacy.

The 1675/3 was Rolex’s first two-tone GMT-Master, combining stainless steel and 14K gold, introduced in 1970. This watch stood alongside the ref. 1675 in stainless steel or full gold. In terms of color use and overall presence, the two-tone version was closer to the full-gold version than the stainless steel one. The 1675/3 remained in production until 1980, marking the transition from the 1675 in stainless steel to the 16570.

What Defines a “Root Beer”?

The 1675/3’s distinctive features are what define a “Root Beer” GMT-Master. It combined a stainless steel case with a yellow gold bezel and crown. The bezel featured a brown and gold insert that inspired the “Root Beer” nickname. It was paired with a dark brown dial, adorned with gold indices and minimal lume, often referred to as the “nipple dial.” 

Moreover, the watch offered a choice between a two-tone Jubilee or Oyster bracelet, but only the Jubilee bracelet, in my opinion, captures the true essence of the “Root Beer.” Visually, the main difference between the 1675/3 and the 16753 was the transition from an applied gold coronet on the 1675/3 to a printed one on the 16753. The movement also evolved, with the older model using the Rolex caliber 1575 and the second generation adopting the 3075, which increased the operational frequency and added a quickset date feature.

A Statement Defined by Its Time

One of the things I admire about Rolex designs is their timelessness, but the Root Beer is a glorious exception. It is unapologetically a product of the ’70s. Even though the 16753 was an ’80s watch, it didn’t lose that bold statement. However, as Mike perfectly explained in his review of the 16753, it’s a design you either love or hate initially, often requiring time to appreciate its flashy ’70s opulence fully.

Embracing the Root Beer means accepting two design hurdles. First, you must love a two-tone watch. While I appreciate a great gold and steel watch, not every watch pulls off that combination. The replica Rolex Datejust and the GMT-Master are the Rolex models that excel in gold and steel. Secondly, you have to embrace the classic ’70s vibe. The brown and gold combination is magnificent to me, though I understand why some might not favor it. Its divisive nature makes it all the more appealing if you appreciate the cool style of the Root Beer.

The 16753 was discontinued in the late 1980s, and its follow-up was the GMT-Master II ref. 16713. This watch, which Brandon wrote about two years ago, introduced the then-new caliber 3185, allowing for independent setting of the 12-hour hand. It also featured a sapphire crystal and an updated brown dial with luminous markers surrounded by yellow gold. However, I feel it lost some of the character of the original Root Beer. The nipple dial and the deep brown color of the original were replaced by a lighter, almost bronze hue in the 16713’s sunburst dial. The 16713 remained in production until 2006. When it was discontinued, it seemed like the Root Beer was gone forever. But in 2018, Rolex unveiled the GMT-Master II ref. 126711CHNR, hinting at the classic Root Beer. However, this model, with its brown and black bezel and Everose gold, strayed too far from the original Root Beer aesthetic for some purists, including myself. A true Root Beer needs the combination of steel and yellow gold. 

The 126711CHNR lacks a brown dial and a Jubilee option, which further distances it from the Root Beer legacy. Clone Rolex doesn’t assign nicknames to its watches; fans do. Thus, the 126711CHNR was dubbed the modern “Root Beer” by enthusiasts. However, many have also proposed alternative nicknames due to its departure from the classic Root Beer’s features.

Despite this, it’s not an unattractive watch. The 126711CHNR is appealing in its own right. But when you label it a “Root Beer,” it evokes a historical perspective and a set of expectations that it doesn’t quite fulfill. There is hope, though. In 2023, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II ref. 126713GRNR in yellow gold and stainless steel, and the full yellow gold 126718GRNR. Both models possess a vintage charm missing from the modern ceramic-bezel GMT-Master IIs. This gives me hope that Rolex could and should create a proper follow-up to the 16713.

The ref. 126713GRNR is a two-tone watch in yellow gold and stainless steel-an essential combination for a modern Root Beer. It also comes on a Jubilee bracelet, another key feature. To complete the modern Root Beer look, all that’s needed is a dark brown dial and a brown and gold bezel insert.

While my request for a new version of the iconic Root Beer is half in jest, I genuinely would love to see it. However, I doubt it will ever come to fruition. For me, the original Rolex GMT-Master 1675/3 will always be the quintessential Root Beer, one of my top five favorite Rolex watches. Nothing can change that.

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